- It’s difficult to think of the bulbous cruciferous vegetable – the cauliflower – as sexy. But indeed this soup was named after one of the most beautiful (and the last) of Louis XV’s mistresses, Comtesse du Barry. She eventually had her head cut off but her beauty pulled her up from the ranks of an illegitimate nobody into fame and fortune as the King’s courtesan.
Todd Parsons Photography: http://toddparsons.net
The French named this creamy soup after her. Why? Perhaps the milky color of the cauliflower reflected her complexion as the website The Old Foodie points out or for the shape and color of her powdered wig? Perhaps because the silky smooth rather curvaceous combination of cream and cauliflower reflected her – ahem – personality?
All I know is that this soup has a seriously sensuous mouth feel and when a little black truffle jus is added and a touch of white truffle oil – it’s magique.
Todd Parsons Photography, http://toddparsons.net
It is common in France to see the name ‘du Barry’ attached to a dish that has a cream sauce or even a mornay sauce (which is a basic white sauce with egg yolks added for extra richness) as well as dishes with cauliflower. I have also made this soup adding egg yolks at the end to give an even more luxurious finished feel but I don’t always find it’s necessary.
Black truffle jus is very expensive. It can be left out if it’s not easy to find or doesn’t fit the budget. However, white truffle oil is often sold in tiny bottles and will give quite a powerful truffle kick even with just a few drops. I also like porcini mushrooms with cauliflower soup, but if you use the dried mushroom liquid (which is tasty) it will change the color a little bit.
A little trick of the trade and a beautiful look to cauliflower soup is shaving some of the larger florets on a mandoline and floating them on the soup. The white on white is stunning for full portions.
Excuse my shameless sales pitch here but a Vita Prep blender will totally change the way you cook. I use it more than any other kitchen appliance. It’s amazing for soups, purées, sauces, vinaigrettes, juices, smoothies, jams, sorbets, etc. And it can take hot and cold liquids and keep them hot or cold. Here’s the new one, it’s super expensive, but I have an old one an it works just fine! I tote it around with me from farm to farm – very durable. Amazon has a range of Vita Preps some with variable speeds (mine only has two).
Ingredients
- 2 medium white cauliflowers, parted into florets. Core discarded
- 3 shallots, chopped
- 3 medium leeks, chopped (white part only)
- 4 ribs celery, chopped
- 6 cups chicken or vegetable stock or water (you might not use all of this)
- 2 cups cream (you will use all of this!)
- 1/4 cup unsalted butter
- 1/2 cup black truffle jus
- Salt
- Olive oil for cooking
- Herb sachet: 2 turkish bay leaves, 4 sprigs fresh thyme
- Garnish: white truffle oil, chives, shaved cauliflower florets, freshly ground black pepper
In a large pot sweat shallots, leeks, and celery with a tablespoon of olive oil over medium heat until translucent. Add cauliflower florets and enough chicken stock to cover and all the cream and butter. Simmer until cauliflower is soft with the herb sachet (which can be wrapped in cheesecloth), about 10 to 15 minutes.
In a Vita Prep carefully ladle in cauliflower florets and mirepoix with just enough of the cooking liquid to cover. More liquid can always be added, but it is very difficult to take it away! Season each batch with salt. When all is blended adjust thickness to your liking. It should be just a little thicker than olive oil in consistency.
Serve soup in bowls or as soup shots with a a few drops of truffle oil, a crack of fresh ground black pepper, and some chive snipets. If desired the soup can also be garnished with shaved raw cauliflower florets.
Note to Chef: the cooking term "sweat" means to sauté without allowing the vegetables to brown or discolor. When the vegetables literally start to sweat and turn translucent that is when the correct stage has been reached!
Ah an alternative to cauliflower cheese. Is it served hot, cold or warm
Yes, although I do think cauliflower goes well with anything cheesy or creamy! I like this soup hot. That’s not to say it couldn’t be served cold, but I think it’s more comforting hot. I will say however, that if you do add the black truffle jus, it is delicate in flavor and won’t stand up to being heated over and over which is why I like to add it at the end. White truffle oil is often chemically engineered (sad, but true) and the aroma will last a little longer although the flavor will go quickly after being heated…
Delicious! Although I must admit cauliflower is rarely on the top of my grocery list, I do love it paired with cream and cheese. It’s just one of those cruciferous veggies (broccoli too) that does well with a little fat. The truffle oil will take it to another level I’m sure, and I’ve actually never used it before at home, but I promise to give it a shot and report back. I just bought a vita prep btw, and you’re right, it’s life changing.
One more question: are you removing the entire core and just using the florets? Is it a no-no if you use the whole vegetable?
I’ve heard it said that the core is where cauliflower stores most of that sugar known as raffinose that creates, ahem, flatulence because our bodies can’t break it down. By not using the stalk of the cauliflower and the base you can remove some of this problem. I use the florets mostly and only some of the core if it is not too big.
My mother has an old Vita-Mix from the mid-80s. That thing is POWERFUL. It will grind wheat and make the smoothest frozen lemonade you could ever imagine! Also, it will make hot soup– no pot required! You just puree the vegetable of your choice with enough stock to get your desired consistency, season it and add a little cream at the end, if you want. It even has a spigot like an industrial coffee urn so you don’t have to pour steaming liquid and risk splashing yourself! I should ask her if she ever uses it, because if she doesn’t, I think I would!
Whaaat?!? It has a spigot too?!? Now that would be handy. I love mine. I use it more than any other kitchen appliance. I don’t think I could cook without it. I used to be a cuisinart only kinda gal, but then I was introduced to the vita prep. Mine is pretty old school w just two speeds: turbo and super-turbo (or at least that’s what is sounds like). I use it for hot and cold snd grinding spices and everything….
Was I clear on the fact that her Vita-Mix actually COOKS the soup? I’ve also made powdered sugar in it. You have to be mindful to rather slowly pulse the machine, after all you’re not making caramel. I think you add a teaspoon of cornstarch to a cup of sugar to keep it powdery dry.
My mother bought it after my son was born. She felt I turned her into a grandmother at too young an age. (I was nearly 23 when my son was born, it’s not my fault she had me when she was 19.) At any rate, she went on a major health kick and lost around 75 pounds, which on a five-foot-nothing woman is A LOT. She bought it after seeing Richard Simmons use it on his old show. Also because it would make juice from whole fruits, seeds, peels and all. I never liked the ones with the seeds and peels, but hey, it worked for her. She eventually gained all the weight back and then some, as people usually do. Now she’s lost some of it again, so… whatever.
As I recall, not having used the thing for 25 years or so, I think it had two forward speeds and one reverse. It seems like the reverse was meant to keep it from getting hot when it was “rocked” back and forth, but honestly, I don’t remember. Maybe reverse was just meant to clear the blades? I just don’t remember. I’ll bet I could talk her into letting it come live at my house if I promised to use it to make fruit leather. (She’s gotten on some sort of survivalist/end of the world kick lately.) It would be handy for that purpose, seeing as it grinds everything down to a fine liquid that comes out hot if you let it run for a few minutes, which would shorten the drying process. Next time she’s in a charitable mood, I’ll ask, if the shock of it doesn’t make me forget. :-/